The
Truth About Trans Fats:
Coming to a Label Near You
FDA Orders More Disclosure;
A New Excuse to Eat Cheetos
By LEILA ABBOUD
Staff Reporter of THE WALL STREET JOURNAL
Consumers will soon get a much clearer idea of just how bad
that glazed doughnut -- and even that little wheat cracker
-- is for their health.
In the biggest regulatory change for the food industry in
a decade, the federal government issued a long-awaited rule
requiring food makers to list the amount of harmful, artery-clogging
fats known as "trans fats" on their product labels.
Though trans fats are found naturally in meats and some dairy products,
Americans ingest far greater amounts of them from munching
cookies, chips and other snack foods -- including some that
are labeled as "low fat."
Nearly all fried and baked goods have some trans fats, and
nutritionists believe they are so noxious that no level is
entirely safe. Not only do trans fats raise so-called bad
cholesterol, but they also lower good cholesterol, the stuff
that reduces risk of clogged arteries.
The new requirement, issued by the Food and Drug Administration,
will force food companies to add a line to nutrition labels
showing how many grams of trans fats are included in each
serving. The revised labels won't be mandatory until Jan.
1, 2006
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| CHEW THE TRANS FAT
• The Daily Scan: Companies Prepare
For a Fight Over Fat
07/09/03
• FDA to Force Food Labels To Show Trans Fat Content
07/08/03
HOW TO CUT BACK
Ways people can avoid trans fats before
the labels appear.
• Scan the ingredients list and avoid
products that include partially hydrogenated oils. These
can include oils that sound healthy, like soybean oil.
• Choose soft or liquid margarine instead of hard, which
contains a higher level of bad fats.
• Choose foods low in saturated fats. Trans fats and
saturated fats, which act similarly in the body, generally
come together.
• Use olive or canola oil, which are good for your heart.
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-- the government usually gives companies long lead times to respond
to new regulations to avoid disrupting business -- but consumers
are likely to see them sooner, especially on products with little
or no trans fats.
The regulation could have big implications for the food industry
as well as individual eating habits -- just as requiring warning
labels on cigarettes nearly four decades ago led many people to
give up smoking and sent the tobacco industry searching for lower-nicotine
products. Already a number of companies, including Kraft Foods Inc.
and McDonald's Corp. are scrambling for ways to reduce trans fats
while keeping the familiar taste and texture in their popular products.
THE SKINNY ON TRANS FAT
• See a chart for the trans fat content of some popular foods.
PepsiCo's Frito-Lay has succeeded in lessening or abolishing trans
fats in its Doritos, Tostitos and Cheetos snacks -- and has already
put the newly required trans-fat line on their nutrition labels
to tout the change. Legal Seafoods, a closely held group of 28 restaurants
on the East Coast, started using a reduced trans-fat oil to fry
its famous fish and switched its supplier of oyster crackers to
one that doesn't use trans fats.
Just Wednesday, Unilever Best Foods North America, a unit of Unilever
PLC, announced it plans to eliminate trans fats from its entire
line of I Can't Believe It's Not Butter spreads by the middle of
next year.
But reformulating won't be easy for most companies. All fats, including
trans fats, provide flavor and texture to foods. Last September,
McDonald's grabbed headlines when it vowed to introduce a new oil
that would cut trans fat in its fried foods, including halving the
amount in its French fries. But so far, the company only has been
able to cut trans fat in some fried-chicken products. It has put
a hold on changing the oil for its fries, citing concerns about
altering the taste. The chain says it continues testing.
Kraft, the nation's largest food company and maker of Oreo cookies
and Oscar Mayer Lunchables, says it has been making strides in eliminating
or reducing trans fats, but isn't sure when it will be able to complete
the task. The toughest challenge is with "sandwich cookies,"
like Oreos (which contain 2.5 grams of trans fat per three-cookie
serving) because it's difficult to get the cream filling to maintain
its texture and shelf life without trans fats.
Food makers have turned for guidance to companies like Cargill,
which has sold a line of both liquid and solid oils with reduced
levels of trans fats for nearly a decade. It is easy to take trans
fats out of chips, but baked goods are harder, said Willie Loh of
Cargill's specialty-canola-oils unit. "Some companies may need
to make changes to manufacturing," said Mr. Loh.
The new labels won't mean much for consumers who don't have additional
knowledge and guidance. They won't put trans fats in context of
a day's diet so people will have no way to glean from the label
how much trans fat is a lot. As they can with other nutrients on
the label, companies will be allowed to round down the amount of
trans fat as zero grams per serving if the amount is anything under
0.5 gram. Similarly, if one serving of cookies has 1.4 grams of
trans fat, the label can round down to list it as 1 gram.
Growing Awareness
The level of saturated fats -- which also raise bad cholesterol
and are more common than trans fats -- has been listed on food labels
since they were first required in the early 1990s. But it was only
in the past several years that scientists became aware of how harmful
trans fats are, and a movement developed to add them to food labels.
Now consumers will get the full "bad-fat" content from
labels. (Other fats are generally beneficial because they help lower
cholesterol.)
People should try to keep their intake of saturated and trans fats
combined to 10% or less of the total calories they consume each
day, says Scott Grundy, a well-known lipid specialist in Texas.
That guideline applies not just to adults but to children over age
two. The benchmarks are even lower for those already at risk of
heart disease or with high cholesterol. They should get no more
than 7% of calories from bad fats, for a total of 15.5 grams a day.
All this means a generally healthy person who eats 2,000 calories
a day, should consume no more than 20 grams of saturated and trans
fats.
Have a glazed donut for breakfast and you have eaten 6 grams of
so-called bad fats. Grab a lunch of a Big Mac, fries and a soft
drink and you've used up all 20 grams of your daily bad-fat allowance.
The average American, however, eats a 2,250-calorie diet with about
15%, or 35 grams, coming from bad fat a day. "People have a
ways to go" to reach the advisable ranges, said Margo Wootan
of the nutrition advocacy group the Center for Science in the Public
Interest.
The trans-fat content in doughnuts and Big Macs may not come as
much surprise. But the new labels are likely to contain some startling
information for other products. According to research by Consumer
Reports magazine, a serving of Nabisco Wheat Thins baked crackers
(about 16 crackers) has 3.5 grams of bad fats. That is worse than
Sunshine's Cheese-It crackers which have 3 grams of bad fat a serving.
Kellogg's Cracklin' Oat Bran cereal has 3.5 grams of bad fat a serving,
more than a container of chocolate Jello Pudding Snacks, which has
2.5 grams.
Consumer intake of trans fats really took off when food makers
figured out how to add hydrogen to vegetable oil. The process, called
hydrogenation, makes the oil more solid at room temperature. Hydrogenated
oils make pastries flakier, breads moister and cookies fresher-tasting.
It also delivers flavor in frozen foods and quick-preparation meals.
Nutrition researchers have known the perils of trans fats for years.
But getting even the bare-bones quantity listing on food labels
took nearly four years of wrangling between the FDA and the food
industry. The industry beat back a proposal that would have prevented
companies from touting their products as "lean" or "heart
healthy" if they contained high levels of trans fats. The industry
also scored a major win by getting the FDA to jettison a proposed
footnote to labels that would have advised consumers to keep their
intake of trans fats as low as possible.
The cautionary footnote was proposed by a panel of doctors convened
to advise the government on the trans-fat issue. After reviewing
the science, the panel concluded that even the smallest amount of
trans fat increases the risk of coronary heart disease so it couldn't
tell consumers how much trans fats they could eat without worrying.
"There is no level at which there is no adverse effect,"
says Suzanne Hendrich, a professor at Iowa State University and
a panel member.
Still, some nutritionists now worry that the focus on trans fats
will lead people to lose sight of saturated fats. On average, Americans
get 12% to 13% of their daily calories from saturated fats, but
only 2% to 3% from trans fats, said Penny Kris-Etherton, a nutrition
professor at Penn State University. "Don't get so waylaid by
thinking about trans fats and forget about the bigger issue of saturated
fat."
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The Skinny on Trans Fat
A look at the fat content in some common foods
PRODUCT - TRANS FAT - SATURATED FAT - BAD FAT
Mrs. Smith's Apple Pie 4 3 7
Dunkin' Donuts Glazed (2) 4 2.5 6.5
Entenmann's Donut Shoppe Donuts Glazed Popems 3 2.5 5
Burger King Dutch Apple Pie (3) 2 2.5 5
I Can't Believe It's Not Butter! 70% Vegetable Oil Spread (stick)
2 1.5 4
Nabisco Chips Ahoy! Real Chocolate Chip Cookies (4) 1.5 2 4
Nabisco Original Flavor Wheat Thins Baked Snack Crackers 2 1 3.5
Kellogg's Cracklin' Oat Bran Cereal 1.5 2 3.5
Kellogg's Eggo Buttermilk Waffles 1.5 1.5 3
Jell-O Pudding Snacks Chocolate Flavor 1.5 1.5 2.5
Sunshine Cheez-It Baked Snack Crackers 1.5 1.5 2.5
Orville Redenbacher's Popping Corn—Reden Budders Movie Theater Butter
1 0.5 1.5
Quaker Chewy Granola Bars Chocolate Chip 0.5 1 1.5
Orville Redenbacher's Popping Corn—Butter Light 0.5 0 0.5
1) Trans and saturated fat combined. Because results are rounded
to the nearest half-gram, the bad fat totals may not equal the sum
of those individual fats.
2) Some companies disagree with the Consumer Reports numbers. Dunkin'
Donuts says 1 glazed donut has 8g of total fat, 2.5g of trans fat
and 1.5g of saturated fat.
3) Burger King says a wedge of Dutch Apple Pie has 14g total fat,
3g trans fat and 3g saturated fat.
4) Kraft Foods says Chips Ahoy! have 8g total fat, 2g trans fat,
2.5g saturated fat. Wheat Thins have 2.5g of trans fat.
Source: Consumer Reports
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--Shirley Leung and Sarah Ellison contributed to this article
Write to Leila Abboud at leila.abboud@wsj.com
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